FAUT-IL CROIRE AUX BIENFAITS DE LA BAVE D’ESCARGOT EN COSMETIQUE ?
Les premières traces d’utilisation de la bave d'escargot à des fins médicinales et cosmétiques remontent à l’antiquité. Hippocrate, le père de la médecine moderne, recommandait l'utilisation de la bave d'escargot pour traiter les plaies et les inflammations de la peau. (Garcia, 1999)[1]
Ce petit rappel historique sur l'usage thérapeutique de la bave d’escargot, montre qu'au-delà des préparations empiriques à base d'escargot, de véritables travaux scientifiques ont été menés sur les actions pharmacologiques de la bave d’escargot et un grand nombre de propriétés biologiques et thérapeutiques ont été mises en évidence.
Il a même été démontré que les substances actives présentes dans le mucus des escargots en font un produit naturel unique non reproductible en laboratoire avec des composés chimiques synthétiques. (Trapella et al.,2018)[2]
Thanks to more than 10 years of research and innovation, Mademoiselle Agathe has created Helicitherapy.
To date, we have carried out around ten scientific studies with the Museum of Natural History in Paris, the University of Rouen, and other research laboratories which have enabled us to identify more than a hundred proteins, peptides, vitamins, and other natural antibiotics in our snail slime extract . (Marie A et Al. 2019)[3]
We are also far from being the only ones to have done extensive research on the mucus of Helix aspersa. And all this research has found multiple applications in the cosmetic and health fields around the world thanks to its various scientifically proven pharmacological properties. (Iguchi et al. 1982 [4]; Shah et al. 2012[5]; Zizioli et al. 2022[6]).
What the scientific literature teaches us is that to produce their effects in the body at the skin level, the different active molecules present in snail slime act in synergy. It is therefore the cosmetic, but also pharmaceutical and medical activity of snail mucus that we have traced here:
EXFOLIATING AND REGENERATING PROPERTIES
(Adikwu et al. 2008[7]; El Mubarak et al., 2013[8]; Liudmyla et al., 2022[9])
MOISTURIZING PROPERTIES
(Gentili et al. 2020[10]; Truchuelo et al. 2020[11])
ANTI-AGING PROPERTIES ,
(Arora, 2021[12]; Cristiano et al. 2022[13]; Liudmyla et al. 2022[14]; Laneri et al. 2019[15]; Tsakanova et al. 2021[16])
ANTIMICROBIAL PROPERTIES,
(Dwek MV et al. 2001 [17]; Noothuan N. et al. 2021 [18]; Ulagesan et al. 2018 [19]; Zhong et al. 2013[20]; Pitt et al. 2015 [21] )
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY PROPERTIES,
(Gugliandolo, Macri et al. 2021[22]; Naruke et al. 2021[23]; Nakajima et al. 2014[24])
RESTORATIVE PROPERTIES,
(Greistorfer et al. 2017[25]; Pitt SJ et al. 2015[26]; Tsoutsos et al. 2009[27])
ANTIALLERGIC PROPERTIES,
(Messina et al. 2022[28]);
HEALING AND ANGIOGENIC PROPERTIES,
(Gugliandolo et al. 2021[29]; Olczyk et al. 2014[30]
ANTIOXIDANT PROPERTIES,
(Cristiano et al. 2022[31])
Other properties which do not involve cosmetics but which are also interesting to know such as BRONCHO-RELAXING PROPERTIES,
(Pons et al., 1998[32])
And even more surprising properties: ANTITUMOR PROPERTIES,
(Ellijimi et al. 2018[33]; El Mubarak et al. 2013[34]; Trapella et al. 2018[35])
Who says better ?
Les propriétés pharmacologiques et biologiques de la bave d’escargot.
It improves the elasticity and hydration of the skin
Le mucus d’escargot présente des propriétés exfoliantes et régénérantes grâce à l’acide glycolique contenu dans son mucus. Il aide à éliminer les cellules mortes de la peau, et ainsi aide à réduire les ridules et les rides. La présence de mucopolysaccharide permet des liaisons hydrogène considérables avec les molécules d'eau adjacentes, ce qui conduit à une hydratation efficace des tissus environnants. De plus, il stimule la synthèse d'hyaluronate, ce qui entraîne une augmentation de la capacité de rétention d'eau et de la viscoélasticité de la peau (Gentili et al. 2020). Lorsqu’on utilise une crème à la bave d’escargot sur la peau, les peptides sont absorbés dans les couches les plus profondes là où ils peuvent interagir avec les fibroblastes. Les peptides se lient à des récepteurs spécifiques à la surface des fibroblastes, déclenchant une cascade d'événements conduisent finalement à une augmentation de la production de collagène (Adikwu et al. 2008 ; Truchuelo et al. 2020).
It reduces wrinkles and fine lines
En améliorant l’hydratation et l'élasticité de la peau, la bave d’escargot via la synergie de ces nombreuses molécules bioactives notamment l’acide glycolique, l’hémocyanine, l’actine, l'allantoïne, l'élastine et le collagène, permet de réduire les rides, les vergetures, (Arora, 2021; Cristiano et al. 2022; Liudmyla et al. 2022 ) les signes du photo vieillissement de la peau et les dommages causés par les radicaux libres. (Laneri et al. 2019; Tsakanova et al. 2021). Le mucus offre également des activités antioxydantes, les antioxydants du mucus sont des substances qui peuvent protéger les cellules contre les dommages causés par les molécules instables connues sous le nom de radicaux libres ou espèces réactives de l'oxygène. Ces molécules (SOD & GST) agissent comme des antioxydants et protègent les composants cellulaires contre l'oxydation par des espèces réactives de l'oxygène. (Cristiano et al. 2022 ; Truchuelo et al. 2020).
It is antimicrobial and bacteriostatic
Several independent studies have shown the ability of snail extracts to act as immunostimulants and to possess antimicrobial, antifungal and antiviral activities. (Dwek MV et al. 2001; Noothuan N. et al. 2021; Ulagesan et al. 2018) The presence of antimicrobial activity in snail mucus has been reported as early as the 1980s. (Zhong et al. 2013 ) In 2015, scientists Pitt SJ and collaborators reported in a preclinical study published in the British Journal of Biomedical Science, the antimicrobial properties of mucus on several types of bacteria, including Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, including some resistant strains to antibiotics. The antibacterial properties of mucus are not attributed to a single peptide, but rather to a combination of several peptides. The "bacteriostatic" effect that we have demonstrated with the University of Rouen is ideal for improving acne-prone skin, because a stronger action called "bactericidal" would lead to the loss of the good bacteria also present on the skin.
The benefits of snail slime for acne-prone skin
It boosts healing mechanisms
La cicatrisation des plaies est un processus physiologique comprenant plusieurs phases coordonnées, telles que l'inflammation, la prolifération et le remodelage. Normalement, le résultat de ces phases séquentielles bien coordonnées est la cicatrisation complète de la plaie avec la restauration d'une structure cutanée normale. Cependant, en présence de différents facteurs pathologiques, tels qu'un état pathologique sous-jacent ou une infection, la plaie peut devenir chronique. L’efficacité de la bave d’escargot dans la cicatrisation des plaies a été prouvée à la fois in vitro et par des études cliniques. Le mucus d’escargot accélère la cicatrisation des plaies en induisant la migration des fibroblastes et en améliorant l’expression des gènes liés à la cicatrisation des plaies. Le mucus d’escargot régule en outre une famille de protéines appelées métalloprotéinases (MMP) qui jouent un rôle clé à toutes les étapes du processus de cicatrisation en modifiant la matrice de la plaie.(Gugliandolo et al. 2021 ; Olczyk et al. 2014)
It reinforces the anti-inflammatory activity of the skin
In recent years, studies have shown that the slime secreted by the snail Helix aspersa Muller, has strong anti-inflammatory activity, (Gugliandolo, Macri et al. 2021; Gugliandolo, Cordaro et al. 2021; ). Snail slime is able to act as an antiallergic agent by significantly inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines (Naruke et al. 2021). Studies also demonstrate that mucus attenuates the development of skin inflammation (Nakajima et al. 2014). Snail mucus exerts its anti-inflammatory effect through different mechanisms. The combined action of different anti-inflammatory molecules contained in snail slime: Actin, Allantoin, peptides, enzymes, glycoproteins and amino acids. Antioxidants such as vitamin E, vitamin C and carotenoids neutralize free radicals that damage skin cells and trigger inflammation. Polysaccharides retain water and hydrate the skin, which helps reduce inflammation by preventing the skin from drying out. By combining these different components, snail slime can act synergistically to reduce inflammation and improve cell regeneration. (Messina et al. 2022)
It increases the production of collagen and elastin
As we age, the production of collagen slows down, which will inexorably lead to wrinkles, the sagging of the very structure of the skin and other signs of aging. The snail slime proteins applied to the skin will be absorbed into the deepest layers where they can interact with the fibroblasts. The mucus extract will then stimulate cell renewal by increasing the production of type 1 and type 3 collagen and elastin. Which will slow the signs of aging, improve skin texture and appearance. (Adikwu et al. 2008).
It stimulates the repair and regeneration of the skin
L’effet kératolytique est basé sur la capacité des molécules bioactives du mucus à pénétrer dans l'épiderme, à dissoudre les liaisons intercellulaires et à faciliter l'exfoliation des cellules mortes de la peau. Toutes les métabolites de la bave d’escargot déclenchent une cascade d'événements pour stimuler la régénération et produire de nouvelles cellules. En stimulant le renouvellement cellulaire cela augmente la production de collagène et d'élastine. Ce qui améliore la texture et l'apparence de la peau. (Adikwu et al. 2008). Pour produire ses effets régénérateurs sur la peau, le mucus augmente la migration et l'expression des molécules d'adhésion cellule-cellule et cellule-substrat dans les fibroblastes et les cellules kératinocytes. (Liudmyla et al., 2022). Grâce à ces caractéristiques, le mucus extrait d' Helix aspersa Muller a été utilisé avec succès comme traitement de réépithélisation dans la prise en charge des brûlures chez les patients adultes (Tsoutsos et al. 2009)
It acts as an anti-pollution barrier
The presence of mucopolysaccharides, according to a 2020 study by Gentili, acts as a barrier to prevent attacks on epithelial cells by pollution. The presence of polyphenols could give mucus the ability to prevent and counter pollution-induced oxidative skin damage. Snail slime acts as an anti-pollution barrier to prevent premature aging of the skin. In this same study, the authors also argue that the topical use of mucus is a very good natural anti-pollution technology to prevent premature aging of the skin. (Gentili et al. 2020)
In conclusion, Helicitherapy operates thanks to the synergy of all the molecules present in snail slime. Despite the predominantly aqueous composition of mucus, all this scientific research confirms that it is precisely the harmonious interactions between proteins and secondary metabolites that give snail slime extract its broad spectrum of cosmetic activity. Don't miss the opportunity to take advantage of this unique synergy and give your skin the radiance it deserves with our treatments. It's not magic, it's helicotherapy!
Source :
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